pest control

Below is a concise “cheat-sheet” that most pest-control companies use when they have to decide (a) where to treat (wall vs. floor) and (b) what product strategy to use (repellent vs. non-repellent / “domino-effect”).

1. Where to treat after the house is already built

   • Concrete slab or monolithic slab on grade
     – 95 % of termite entry occurs at the cold joint between the slab and the wall sole plate.
     – In post-construction jobs the practical fix is to drill the floor (slab) 150–300 mm (6-12inches)  from the wall and inject termiticide downward into the soil.
   • Crawl-space or basement with accessible subfloor
     – You can choose either the interior floor (drill through the subfloor) or the exterior wall trench; cost usually decides.
   • Stud wall infested (dry-wood termites)
     – Interior wall voids must be treated directly (foaming, dusting, or fumigation).
   • In Australia, the A3660.1 standard explicitly calls for re-treatment of the floor perimeter after construction is complete.

1. Treatment Areas: Walls vs. Floors

• Walls:
  • Termites often travel through wall voids, electrical conduits, or cracks.
  • Treatment involves drilling and injecting termiticide into wall cavities or applying foam/bait systems.
  • Critical for protecting structural wood (studs, frames).
• 300 mm or 12inches inches with 12mm diameter 45 degree angle both sides of the walls at plinth leve to hold the liquid  until the masonry is entirely saturated.
• Floors:
  • Subfloor areas and slab foundations are common entry points.
  • Requires trenching around the perimeter or drilling through slabs to inject termiticide.
  • Focuses on creating a chemical barrier beneath the home.

1. Product choice: “Repellent” vs. “Domino” (non-repellent)

2. Repellent vs. Non-Repellent (Domino Effect) Treatments

1. • Pyrethroids (bifenthrin, permethrin, deltamethrin)
     – Fast knock-down, but repellent. Termites detect it, turn back, and look for gaps.
     – Good for preventive perimeter barriers when the homeowner wants a cheap annual spray.
   • Non-repellents (fipronil, imidacloprid, chlorantraniliprole, hexaflumuron baits)
     – Termites cannot detect the chemical; they carry it back and spread it through the colony (the “domino effect”).
     – Mandatory if you already have active termites inside.
     – Typical post-construction protocol: drill 6 mm holes every 200–300 mm through the slab, inject 4 L per linear metre of a fipronil-based solution; seal holes with cementitious grout.

4. Recommended Approach

• Combination Strategy:
  • Use non-repellent for walls/floors to target hidden colonies.
  • Add repellent for external soil barriers (if needed).
• Post-Construction Tips:
  • Inspect for cracks, plumbing penetrations, and wood-to-ground contact.
  • Consider bait systems (e.g., Sentricon) for long-term monitoring.

1. Quick decision matrix

4. Practical tip for homeowners
   • If you already see termites (mud tubes, frass), insist on a non-repellent treatment.
   • If the service company only offers a “spray and walk away” pyrethroid job, you’re paying for a temporary repellent shield, not colony elimination.

Schedule every 2-3 years at least 5 years

Phase 1: Inspection & Preparation (Day 1)

• Inspect: Check walls (voids, cracks), floors (slab edges, subfloor), and exterior soil.
• Identify Entry Points: Mark drill sites for walls (every 10–12 inches) and floors (slab perimeter).
• Choose Chemicals:
  • Non-repellent (e.g., Termidor SC/fipronil) for colony elimination.
  • Repellent (e.g., Biflex TC/bifenthrin) for exterior soil barriers (if needed).

Phase 2: Treatment Application

Day 2: Non-Repellent (Domino Effect) Treatment

• Walls:
  • Drill into wall voids at baseboards or weep holes.
  • Inject Termidor SC (0.125% dilution) or Premise Foam for hard-to-reach areas.
• Floors:
  • For slabs: Drill along perimeter (12–18″ intervals), inject termiticide.
  • For crawl spaces: Trench and treat soil with Termidor (1 gal/10 linear ft).

Day 3: Repellent Barrier (Optional)

• Apply bifenthrin to exterior soil (trenching 6″ deep x 6″ wide) if additional deterrence is needed.
• Avoid mixing repellents with non-repellents in the same zone (reduces domino effect).

Phase 3: Follow-Up & Monitoring

• Day 30: Re-inspect for activity. Refresh treatments if needed.
• Day 90–180: Install bait stations (e.g., Sentricon) for long-term monitoring.
• Annual Maintenance:
  • Reapply repellent barriers (every 2–3 years).
  • Check bait stations quarterly.

Key Notes

• Non-repellents require 24–72 hours to kill termites; repellents work immediately but lack colony impact.
• Prioritize non-repellent in walls/floors for hidden infestations. Use repellents only for perimeter defense.
• Domino effect works best when termites freely move through treated zones (avoid repellent interference).

will termite entry into concrete wall

Termites can’t eat through solid concrete, but they can enter buildings through cracks, expansion joints, and openings in concrete, like those around pipes, and use them to reach cellulose-rich materials like wood. Subterranean termites, in particular, often nest behind or beneath concrete barriers and can travel through small cracks and gaps to access wood inside walls. 

how to detect termite damage in walls

To detect termite damage in walls, look for signs like hollow-sounding wood when tapped, mud tubes on walls, bubbling or peeling paint, and damaged drywall. Other indicators include sagging floors, difficulty opening doors or windows, and the presence of discarded termite wings. 

bubbling or peeling paint backside of wood on wall termite

Bubbling or peeling paint on a wall can indeed be a sign of termite activity, particularly when it’s not due to water damage

hollow-sounding wood, or frass (termite droppings, which resemble fine sawdust).

termite treatment options

Professional Inspection